Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Seattle: The Reviews

Over the last two days, I have been in Seattle with the Whitehouse-Crawford crew for a taste of Seattle, a yearly trip designed to allow us the opportunity to see how other fine restaurants work. I went several places and am full beyond belief. Here's the run-down:

Ha Na

Our first adventure was a casually organized lunch stop at Ha Na (218 Broadway E) for sushi. Our chef, Jamie Guerin, ordered for the six of us a selection from the menu of fresh fish. Of note was the raw shrimp, simply presented next to the shrimp head which had been quickly fried. The raw shrimp meat was tender and mild with a very fresh texture (the shrimp heads were a lot like popcorn). We also had a spectacular striped bass dipped in a prepared sauce - sensationally fresh and down right yummy. We tried geoduck, which was neither remarkable nor unpleasant. I was also able to try sea urchin, which tastes a little bit like an unscented commercial cleaning agent mixed with dirt. I was unable to get the flavor out of my mouth for some time.

Le Pichet

After lunch and a failed attempt at organizing a wine tasting, several freelancers trudged down to Le Pichet (1933 1st Ave) for wine and a great selection of small plates. There, we shared raw local oysters (breathtaking!) and a selection of cheeses, paired with some frizzante rosè. I have been to Le Pichet many times and always love it.

Union

The first official trip meal (as well as the first free meal) was dinner at Union (1st Ave. at Union). We waited for our reservation at the bar and drank in the décor, a colorful, somewhat industrial interior with a warm feeling. I had a perfect Manhattan. At the table, which included Amarha, Sidney (servers), Neftali and Levi (dishwashers), we were met with really really good bread and olives. I mean, dang! The server had a strange manner as though he was reading from a script, but he proved himself to be somewhat knowledgeable. We started with a pile of more RAW OYSTERS! They were certainly the freshest oysters I'd ever had. Levi and Neftali had never tried oysters, and really enjoyed them. I paired them with a glass of prosseco. We then had a course of appetizers and salads. I chose a somewhat unremarkable endive salad. For our third course, we chose from a selection of housemade pastas where I encountered my newly acquired disdain for sea urchin. I thought I'd give it another try, and this time is was beautifully spiced and infused in handmade linguine, but unfortunately still tasted like chemical burn and dirt. I also found it extremely difficult to pair, chiefly because all I really wanted to do was clean out my mouth. Perhaps mouthwash would have been an appropriate pairing, but I toughed my way through it. Fourth, I had breaded sweetbreads in a cassoulet-style bean and vegetable mixture. It was extremely delicious and left me wanting more. At that point, the wine pairings became a little inconsequential, since I was two and a half sheets to the wind. Suffice it to say, I didn't pair dessert. Dessert was unmemorable, and in my case and that of Levi, rather disappointing. We both had a gelatti made from spiced roasted apples, which tasted exactly like frozen baby food. The WH-C crew lingered for some time at the bar, where the owner treated us to free bar drinks. The bar was a great asset to Union, and a perfect reason to return. We were able to meet most of the kitchen staff and talk to the chef. The staff at Union was extremely gracious, and it was a very memorable meal.

Zig Zag

After Union, we climbed down to the Zig Zag, a bar specializing in vintagey classics. It had a great atmosphere and knowledgeable team of bartenders. I was able to finally have a pisco sour, perfectly made, and there didn't seem to be any hesitation. Brooklynd tried to hook me up with her friend Brennen, so that was a little awkward. I enjoyed myself for a short while, but decided to hit the road before I fell or embarrassed myself. I intend to go back ASAP.

Tulio

We rounded out the trip with a full service lunch at Tulio. Of particular note were the house curred meats and handmade pastas. I enjoyed stunning squid, then rounded it out with a huge bowl of orchiette, sausage and tomato sauce, sumptuous, comfortable, generally great hangover food. We finished with some delightful canolli, tarramissu, and a pistachio gellato (that did not taste like baby food). The service was flawless until the server forgot my coffee, but in general was pleasant. Jamie Guerin suggested we trade plates for a moment, and I agreed to my misfortune. Jamie finished my pasta, leaving me with a simple linguine whose only strong point was the bacon crumbled throughout. The best part of the meal was my conversation with Sonia and Jamie, without whom the meal would have been utterly forgettable.

1 comment:

Jess Salvador said...

Coincidentally, the cover of the Seattle Metropolitan magazine that I purchased today read, "The Most Important Restaurants: 20 That Changed The Way We Eat, And 10 That Are Changing It Again". We may have to make another 'Big To-Go List'.